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Should I refinance? The honest math.

Most refi calculators tell you the monthly savings and stop there. That's the wrong question. The right question is: how long until savings exceed closing costs? Below that break-even point, you lose money. This calculator shows you both: monthly delta AND break-even month. Buying instead? Try the Mortgage Calculator.

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Step 01 of 04

What brings you here today?

Your Current Loan

Tell us about your situation

$320,000
$50K$1.5M
7.250%
2%10%
26 years
530
New Loan
6.250%
2%10%
New loan term30 years
$8,000
$2K$25K
$0$200K
7 years
1 yr30 yr
Your Refi Math

Break-even analysis

Monthly savings
$311
Break-even
26 mo
Current monthly P&I
$2,282
New monthly P&I
$1,970
Monthly savings
$311
Total interest (current path)
$391,902
Total interest (refi path)
$389,306
Verdict
You break even at month 26. Since you plan to own this home 84 months (7 years), refinancing nets $18,161 in savings over your remaining ownership period.
No. 02  ·  When refi makes sense

Three rules. Two of three must hit.

Refinancing isn't free — closing costs run 2–3% of loan amount. Before clicking "apply," verify these three conditions.

01
Rate dropped enough
≥ 0.75% lower
The rule of thumb: refinance when new rate is at least 0.75 percentage points below current rate. Below that, closing costs eat the savings. Smaller drops can work for very large loans where the dollar delta is meaningful.
02
Hold period exceeds break-even
By 24+ mo
If your break-even is month 37 and you plan to sell at month 40, you net three months of savings — not worth the hassle. Aim for break-even with at least two years of buffer on top.
03
No major cash crunch coming
Cash for closing
Closing costs of $5K–$15K typically come out of pocket (or get rolled in, but then you finance them at the new rate for 30 years). Don't drain savings or 401(k) to refinance unless the math is overwhelming.
No. 03  ·  Common refi mistakes

Five expensive mistakes buyers don't notice.

The math looks obvious until you account for these. Each one routinely turns a "good refi" into a net loss. For a deeper dive, read When a Refi Actually Pays.

01
Resetting the clock to 30 years
You've been paying for 8 years. You refinance into a new 30-year. Your monthly payment drops $300, but you just added 8 more years of interest payments. Total interest paid over the life of both loans often exceeds what you'd have paid keeping the original. Solution: match remaining term — refinance into a 22-year loan instead.
02
Rolling closing costs into the loan
"No closing cost refi" means costs are added to your loan principal. You'll pay 30 years of interest on those $8,000 in closing costs. Solution: pay closing costs out of pocket if cash flow allows. The math improves dramatically.
03
Not factoring in the rate-lock window
Rates can move 0.25–0.5% during the 30–45 day refi process. Lock your rate immediately at application. Floating costs you on a market that's rising, and floating "hopes" for a drop more often loses than wins.
04
Refinancing a cash-out into PMI territory
Pulling cash out can push your LTV above 80%, triggering PMI on a loan that didn't have it before. The cash-out math has to clear PMI cost too. Solution: verify post-refi LTV before signing — or use a HELOC for the cash-out portion instead.
05
Ignoring escrow shortage at closing
Your existing escrow balance doesn't transfer cleanly. New lender requires 2–3 months of taxes and insurance funded at closing — often $1,500–$4,000 in addition to closing costs. Plan for this in your cash-to-close estimate.
No. 04  ·  Common Questions

Refinance questions, answered honestly.

Eight questions homeowners ask before refinancing. Real answers, including the math nobody else shows you.

Rule of thumb: at least 0.75 percentage points below your current rate. Below that, closing costs typically eat the savings before break-even.

Exceptions: very large loans (over $750K) where even a 0.5% drop creates meaningful monthly delta, or moving from FHA to Conventional to escape permanent MIP.

Depends on your current rate. If your existing first-mortgage rate is below market, don't refinance — use a HELOC and keep your low rate intact on the larger first-mortgage balance.

If your current rate is at or above market, cash-out refinance can lower your blended rate AND fund the project. See Cash-Out Refinance for the side-by-side math.

Rate-and-term refinance: Replaces existing mortgage with a new one at a different rate, term, or both — no cash out at closing. Lowest rates, simplest underwriting. See Rate-and-Term Refinance.

Cash-out refinance: New mortgage exceeds the current balance, with the difference paid to you in cash at closing. Higher rate (typically 0.25–0.50% more) and stricter LTV/credit requirements. See Cash-Out Refinance.

Match your remaining term, or shorten it. If you have 22 years left on your current 30-year loan, refinancing into a 22-year saves you the years of additional interest you'd incur on a fresh 30-year.

Going shorter (15-yr or 20-yr) can save tens of thousands in interest, often with a lower rate too. Trade-off: higher monthly payment. Run the math on the calculator above with different new-term selections, or use the Payment Comparison tool.

Conventional refinance: 620 minimum, 740+ for best rates. FHA Streamline Refinance: can refinance with FICO as low as 580 (some lenders no minimum) since it's a simplified process. VA IRRRL: typically no FICO minimum — payment-history-based.

If your score has dropped since original purchase, FHA Streamline (if you're currently FHA) or VA IRRRL (if you're currently VA) may still work even when conventional refi is closed off.

30–45 days typical for full underwriting refinance (rate-and-term or cash-out). FHA Streamline and VA IRRRL can close in 20–30 days due to simplified documentation.

Lock your rate at application — rate locks typically run 45–60 days, enough to cover the close. Floating the rate is gambling; locking is insurance.

2–3% of loan amount for full refinance. On a $400K loan, that's $8,000–$12,000. Includes lender fees, title insurance, escrow setup, appraisal, recording, and prepaid property tax/insurance reserves.

FHA Streamline and VA IRRRL closing costs are typically lower — in the $3,000–$6,000 range — because they skip the appraisal and full underwriting steps. For deeper context, see When a Refi Actually Pays.

Yes — this is one of the most common reasons for refinancing. The remaining spouse refinances the existing loan into their name only, removing the ex from the obligation. Note: the remaining borrower must qualify on their income/credit alone.

If the remaining borrower doesn't qualify on their own, alternatives include: keeping the loan with both names (legal complications), selling the home, or having a third party assume the loan (rare). Talk to a divorce-experienced LO before signing the property settlement agreement.

Ready to Run the Real Numbers?

Get a refi quote based on your file.

Sixty-second short app — no SSN, no hard credit pull. We'll come back with your real refi rate, true break-even math, and whether you should rate-and-term, cash-out, or stand pat. Sometimes the right answer is don't refinance. We'll tell you that.

Or call 800.672.9470
NMLS #1796·Licensed in 50 states·Equal Housing Lender
Disclosures. This calculator provides illustrative break-even and savings estimates based on standard amortization math. Actual refinance terms depend on credit profile, equity position, loan program, property type, and current market pricing. Closing-cost figures are typical ranges, not quotes — final disclosures arrive with a Loan Estimate. Total interest figures shown assume the loan is held to full maturity and do not account for early payoff, recasting, or future rate changes on adjustable products. Land Home Financial Services, Inc. NMLS #1796. Equal Housing Lender. Licensed in 50 states.
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