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Home/Refinance/Rate & Term Refi

Lower your rate. Or shorten your term.

A rate-and-term refinance replaces your existing mortgage with a new one — same balance, different rate or different length. The decision isn't "are rates lower?" The decision is whether your closing costs will pay themselves back before you sell or refi again. Most refis fail this test. Here's the calculator that tells you the truth, the math behind it, and three scenarios that show how the answer flips.

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What brings you here today?

Break-Even Calculator  ·  The Real Math

Should you refi your specific loan?

Enter your current loan details and the new rate you're being quoted. We'll calculate monthly savings, break-even month, and lifetime savings over your remaining ownership horizon. If your break-even is longer than how long you'll be in the home, refi doesn't pay — even if the new rate is much lower.

Your Current Loan

Tell us about your file

$320,000
$100K$1M
26 years
5 yr29 yr
7.250%
3.0%10.0%
6.000%
3.0%10.0%
New loan term30 years
$8,000 (2.5%)
$2K$20K
10 years
2 yr30 yr
Your Answer
VERDICT

Refi makes sense.

Break-even at month 23 (year 1.9). You'll own this home for 10 years — that's 8.1 years of pure monthly savings after break-even. Net win: $35,228 over your ownership horizon.

CURRENT
$2,282
7.250% · 26 yr left
AFTER REFI
$1,919
6.000% · 30 yr
BREAK-EVEN
23
MONTHS · 1.9 YEARS
NET BENEFIT
$35,228
OVER YOUR HORIZON
Cumulative Cost vs. Status Quo

Starting position: closing costs paid up front. Each month, you save the rate-difference. The black line shows where you break even and start banking real savings.

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Or call an LO

Estimates only. Real closing costs vary by state, lender, and loan amount. P&I calculations assume scheduled amortization with no prepayments.

The Rule of Thumb

The 0.75% rule is wrong.

You've heard the rule: "Refi if your new rate is 0.75% below your current rate." It's been quoted in personal-finance columns for thirty years. It was already a bad heuristic in 1995. It's worse now.

The problem with the 0.75% rule is that it ignores the only two numbers that actually matter: how much your closing costs are, and how long you'll be in the home before you sell or refi again.

A 1.5% rate drop on a $200K loan saves you maybe $180/month. If your closing costs are $8K, you need 44 months to break even. If you're planning to move in 3 years, you've just paid $8K to save $6,500. That's a loss, even though the rate drop "passed" the 0.75% rule.

The opposite case is also true. A 0.5% rate drop with $1,500 in closing costs can pay back in 8 months. If you're staying long enough, that's an obvious refi — even though the rate drop "fails" the 0.75% rule.

Real test: closing costs ÷ monthly savings < months until you'll move or refi

That's it. That's the entire decision. The calculator above runs this math for your specific file. If the break-even is shorter than your ownership horizon, refi. If not, don't.

What You're Actually Paying  ·  Refi Closing Costs

The closing-cost breakdown, line by line.

Refi closing costs typically run 2–3% of the loan amount, sometimes lower with no-cost refi structures (where the lender pays the costs in exchange for a higher rate). Here's where the money goes — so you can ask intelligent questions when you see your Loan Estimate.

Lender Fees · the negotiable ones

Lender charges

~$2,000–$4,000 typical
  • Origination fee aka points, processing fee0.5–1.5%
  • Underwriting fee flat fee for AUS + manual review$500–$1,200
  • Application/processing fee some lenders charge, some don't$0–$800
  • Discount points buy your rate down — optional1% per point
Third-Party · fixed by service provider

Third-party charges

~$2,000–$3,500 typical
  • Appraisal required for most refis$500–$800
  • Title insurance lender's policy, mandatory0.5–1%
  • Title search + settlement title company fees$400–$900
  • Credit report tri-merge, all 3 bureaus$30–$80
  • Flood certification + tax service$25–$100
Government · non-negotiable

Government fees

~$200–$2,000 typical
  • Recording fees filing the new deed of trust$50–$300
  • Transfer/mortgage taxes varies wildly by state$0–$1,500
  • FHA upfront MIP only if refinancing into FHA1.75%
  • VA funding fee only if refinancing into VA, IRRRL is 0.50%0.50–3.30%
Prepaid items · not really "fees"

Prepaid amounts

Varies — escrow setup
  • Per-diem interest from closing date through end of month~$30/day
  • Property tax escrow 2–6 months collected upfront2–6 mo
  • Homeowners insurance escrow 2 months upfront, plus 12-month policy14 mo total
  • Mortgage insurance reserve if applicable2 mo

These aren't "costs" — they're amounts you'd owe anyway, just collected at closing instead of monthly. Don't include these in your break-even math.

Worked Scenarios  ·  Three Real Files

When refi pays. When it doesn't.

Three borrowers, three different refi situations. Same rule of thumb gives the wrong answer in two of them. The actual math gives the right answer every time.

IScenario · N° 01The obvious refi

Linda P.

The question: Linda bought in 2023 at the rate peak. Rates have come down hard. Refi or wait for rates to drop further?

Loan balance
$280,000
Current rate
7.875%
New rate quoted
5.875%
Closing costs
$6,800
Years remaining hold
12 years
Current P&I
$2,031/mo (7.875% · 27 yr left)
New P&I
$1,656/mo (5.875% · 30 yr)
Monthly savings
$375
Break-even
18 mo
IIScenario · N° 02The "rule" passes — but math fails

Devon & Maya M.

The question: rate drop is 0.875%, which "passes" the 0.75% rule. But they're moving in 3 years for a new job. Worth it?

Loan balance
$185,000
Current rate
7.000%
New rate quoted
6.125%
Closing costs
$7,200
Years remaining hold
3 years (job relocation)
Current P&I
$1,260/mo (7.000% · 28 yr left)
New P&I
$1,124/mo (6.125% · 30 yr)
Monthly savings
$136
Break-even
53 mo
IIIScenario · N° 03The term-shortening play

Robert E.

The question: Robert wants to be mortgage-free by retirement (15 years out). Worth refinancing 25 years left into a 15-year? Monthly payment goes up, not down.

Loan balance
$240,000
Current rate · term
6.500% · 25 yr left
New rate · term
5.625% · 15 yr
Closing costs
$5,500
Plan
Pay off before retirement
Current P&I
$1,621/mo (6.500% · 25 yr left)
New P&I
$1,975/mo (5.625% · 15 yr)
Monthly INCREASE
$354
Total interest saved
~$130K
Alternatives  ·  When Refi Isn't the Right Move

Sometimes the answer isn't a refi.

Rate-and-term refinance is one tool. Five other tools exist for situations where refi math doesn't pencil. Here's the comparison.

OptionWhen it fitsClosing costsTrade-offs
Rate-and-Term Refi this pageRates dropped enough + you'll stay long enough to break even2–3% of loan amountResets amortization clock; interest savings spread over loan life
FHA Streamline FHA loans onlyYou have an FHA loan + rate dropped + you want fast/cheapOften $0–$2,000FHA→FHA only; MIP continues; no cash out
VA IRRRL VA loans onlyYou have a VA loan + rate dropped (or going from ARM to fixed)0.50% funding fee + ~$2,000VA→VA only; no cash out; 60-day waiting period after origination
Recast / re-amortization same lender, no refiYou have a lump sum to pay down principal + want lower payment without refi$200–$500 flat feeSame rate as current loan; minimum prepayment usually $5K+; not all loans allow
HELOC second mortgageYou need cash and your existing rate is already great$0–$1,500 to openVariable rate; payments interest-only first ~10 years; new lien on the home
Do nothing the right answer oftenRate didn't drop enough OR you're moving soon OR closing costs too high$0You keep your current rate (and your current peace of mind)
Common Questions  ·  About Rate-and-Term Refi

Six refi questions, answered honestly.

No marketing copy. The biggest refi misunderstandings are about timing (when is "now" the right time?), no-cost refis, and what happens to your old loan. Let's clear those up.

Probably not. Trying to time the absolute bottom is a fool's errand — nobody knows where rates go next, including the experts. The honest framework:

(1) If your math currently shows a clear refi win (break-even is well shorter than your hold horizon), refinance now. Every month you wait is a month of higher payments you'll never get back.

(2) If rates drop another 0.5%+ later, you can refinance again — just run the break-even math on a second refi against your then-current loan. Two well-timed refis often beat one perfectly-timed refi.

(3) If your math is borderline now, waiting makes sense. Rate volatility could move it either direction.

The decision is your hold horizon vs. break-even, not your prediction of the rate market.

It's real, but not actually free. A "no-cost" refi means the lender pays your closing costs in exchange for giving you a higher rate — usually 0.25%–0.50% above the par-rate option.

Math example: $300K loan, 6.000% with $7,500 closing costs vs. 6.375% with $0 closing costs. The 0.375% rate bump costs you ~$70/month, or $25,200 over 30 years. Vs. paying $7,500 once.

So "no-cost" makes sense only if:

(a) You're moving in 3 years or less and the math says don't refi at all — but a no-cost option might still pencil because the break-even is at month 1.

(b) You don't have cash for closing and won't be in the loan long enough for the rate bump to matter.

Otherwise, paying closing costs upfront for the lower rate is usually the better long-term decision.

Yes, by default — but you don't have to take a 30-year term. A new refinance is a new loan with a new term. If you refi a 30-year loan with 24 years left into another 30-year loan, you've added 6 years to your payoff date.

Most lenders offer multiple term options on a refi: 15, 20, 25, or 30 years. Match the new term to your remaining horizon:

If you have 24 years left on your current loan and want to keep paying it off on the same schedule, refi into a 20- or 25-year loan. Rates on shorter terms are typically lower, and you avoid the "reset clock" effect.

The only time a 30-year refi makes sense is when you specifically want a lower monthly payment — which means you're trading total interest cost for cash flow. That's a valid choice, but make it consciously.

Maybe — depends on how much it dropped and what loan type.

Conventional refi: typically needs 80% LTV or better (loan ≤ 80% of current appraised value). If you have a lot of equity but values dropped, you may still be at 80%+. If not, you'll need PMI on the refi (which usually kills the math).

FHA Streamline: often allows refi without an appraisal at all if you have an existing FHA loan — meaning home value drops don't matter for eligibility.

VA IRRRL: same — usually no appraisal required.

HARP-style underwater refi programs: those ended in 2018. There's no current widely-available program for underwater conventional borrowers.

If your home value dropped significantly, your LO can run a desktop appraisal estimate before you commit to the application — to see if the refi is even feasible.

Two things, in two stages.

At refi closing: the new lender sets up a fresh escrow account, which means you pay 2-6 months of property taxes and 14 months of homeowners insurance into the new account upfront. This goes on your closing costs disclosure but is not really a "cost" — you'd owe these amounts anyway, just on a different schedule.

30-60 days after refi: your old lender sends you a refund check for the entire balance of your old escrow account. This often partially or fully offsets the new escrow you funded at closing.

So your real cash impact is the difference between the old escrow balance and the new escrow setup — which is usually within a few hundred dollars in either direction.

Typically 30–45 days from application to closing. The breakdown:

Days 1–7: application, document collection, credit pull, initial disclosures (Loan Estimate sent within 3 business days per TRID).

Days 7–21: appraisal scheduled and completed (~1-2 weeks for the appraiser to visit and turn in the report). Income/employment verifications. Title work.

Days 21–35: underwriting review, conditions to clear, final approval.

Days 35–42: closing disclosure issued (3-day mandatory waiting period before closing per TRID), signing appointment scheduled, closing.

Streamline refis (FHA Streamline, VA IRRRL) move faster — sometimes 21-30 days — because they skip appraisal and full income re-verification. Fast-track conventional refis with strong files can close in 21-25 days.

Ready When You Are

Got the math. Want a real quote?

Sixty-second short application — no SSN, no hard credit pull yet. We'll pull your current loan details, run the actual break-even math against current pricing, and tell you whether refinancing makes sense for your specific file. Even if it doesn't.

Or call 800.672.9470
NMLS #1796·Lending in 50 states·Equal Housing Lender
Disclosures. All numbers on this page are estimates based on the inputs provided. Actual approval, pricing, and closing costs depend on automated underwriting, credit history, employment verification, property appraisal, and program-specific overlays. By refinancing your existing loan, the total finance charges incurred may be higher over the life of the loan. Land Home Financial Services, Inc. NMLS #1796. Equal Housing Lender. Licensed in 50 states.
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